So, instead of the ambitious 30 mile Dingle bike loop, we opted for a bike trip to the Gallarus Oratory in order to make our bus on time. I didn’t get tablet photos of this place, or the way to it, but both were magnificent. The oratory is a 1300-yr old chapel-type bldg, made by early Irish christian artists. I say artists because the bldg is small but stable, crafted (painstakingly so!), and very beautiful.  So so so amazed.

After a pretty miserable day and a half getting back through Tralee and Dublin,  we reached Holyhead, Wales. A very small town, but after fighting our way through massive holiday crowds and arguing over maps and dealing with a bad knee (me) and some very nerve-wracking dizziness (Marshall), its smallness and stillness were so welcome.  Marshall never had any serious Meniere’s flare-up, but being afraid the brief bout of dizziness was a precursor of something cast the whole travel day in a different light. We had lots of walking to do, yesterday, and really didn’t want to use the phone,  so we basically prayed the whole day.  When we finally got into the tent last night, we counted up all the “moments of grace” we had, and felt so taken-care of.

Firstly,  a route misinterpretation ended up getting us to the ferry dock much faster than we thought. (Were going to walk 5 miles.) Secondly, we kind of ran out of food and needed to get to a market in Holyhead when we arrived, but found that ALL grocery stores in Holyhead had closed an hour before we landed and wouldn’t reopen till the next morning. We cd have stopped at any restaurant for me, but it’s really tough to find restaurants that will do no-salt food. So someone directed us to — basically — a newspaper shop that sold snacks, and after the friendliest interaction we’d had with anyone on this trip, the shop owner told us about a pub next to the place we were camping that cd make us some food to order, and gave us four oranges. For free. Thirdly, when we got to the pub, we ordered a burger (me) and a salmon filet (one of the few things that tastes great salt-free), and they got Marshall’s order right. What a day.


Incidentally, we kept having to walk on these bizarre and treacherous sidewalks on our way to and from the stations. After I post this, I’m going to google “rude Welsh sidewalks” to see what the hell. We both nearly twisted ankles.

20130603_085300This is this morning’s so so happy tea and scone, finally on our way tp Oxford. More on that soon.